Heirloom recipes: carrot salad

This is my late grandmother Florence Winifred Fowler, who I called Big Ma Ma. She was an intelligent and hard woman who led quite a bohemian life for her day. She taught me how to sew, and how to make peppermint creams. She’s the only person who has ever cooked me chicken kiev from scratch, and she would never hold back on telling you if she thought you looked fat.

My grandmother gave me a recipe journal containing beautiful, hand-written copies of some of her favourite dishes. It’s one of my most precious possessions, and I’ve decided to share them with you here. Inspired by the beautiful purple carrots in my fridge, I’m starting with my grandmother’s variation on a classic French carrot salad. I made it for lunch, and it is delicious. I’m not sure if it is this salad, or just the cress, but even the smell of it reminds me of her.

– Winifred’s Carrot Salad

8 crisp carrots
4 spring onions
Carton mustard cress

– For the dressing

Juice of 1 lemon and 1 orange
1 tsp wholegrain mustard
1 dsp runny honey
1/2 veg stock cube (or 1/2 tsp Swiss Vegetable Bouillon)
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp chopped parsley

NB: I have substituted spring onions for very finely sliced red onion because that’s what I had in the cupboard, and it looks pretty with the purple carrots.

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